The Argentine mountaineer achieved a record time from Plaza Argentina, via Directa Polacos, in 8h 39m 20s, with a total time of 11h 45m to the starting point. The details.
Argentine Gregorio Frondizi, originally from General Lamadrid, in the Province of Buenos Aires, achieved a new record on Sunday 9th in the ascent of Aconcagua, via the «Directa Polacos» route, establishing a time of 8h 39m with 20s to access the summit, from Plaza Argentina, and completing a total with return to the starting point, in 11h 45m, in one of the three most outstanding records of this season, highlighting that this ascent, unlike the records of Lenka Poláčková, Karl Egloff and Tyler Andrews, which were on the normal route, was made on the complex Polacos route.
This is what Gregorio himself recounted through his social networks:
«New record in the Polish Direct in Aconcagua!!! Yesterday I left from Plaza Argentina to the summit of Aconcagua by the «Polish Direct» a route with many more difficulties and exposure than the normal one. Very happy to have done it in a very good time of 8 hours 39 minutes 20 seconds despite being my first time on this route of greater technical difficulty and exposure, I went alone totally convinced of my skills and physical and mental abilities.
Objective achieved that gives me room to continue dreaming and projecting much higher a more difficult route, from the base camp, using technical equipment and fixed ropes as they do in high mountains in other parts of the world.
I left at 1:55 in the morning on a spectacular day that I had already seen in the forecast, a little «scared» by a larger snowfall than forecast the day before but with many emotions and adrenaline at the same time. I made the approach I went to the glacier in very good weather and conditions. I did 1 hour 03 minutes to Camp 1, and 1 hour 52 minutes to Guanacos, where I grabbed some technical equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons).
It was a very dark night and with my feet a bit cold, so I got onto the glacier after 3 hours 30 minutes from the base. I started to climb with a lot of powder snow from the previous snowfall, which made the climb physically difficult. It’s a long climb! Steep and straight up! Breathe hard and keep going!
The sun came out and the heat returned to my body, and it was very hot, climbing in a hurry. After approximately 4 hours I overcame the technical difficulties and in 8 hours and about 40 minutes later I was at the summit, incredible! I enjoyed the summit for a while (as it should be, otherwise why?) and began the descent via Falsos Polacos, a direct route that left me at the base of the glacier to then continue down to Camp 1. I reached the park rangers after 11 hours and 45 minutes of climbing!!»
The route of the Glacier of the Poles was opened by the Poles Konstanty Narkiewicz, Stefan Daszynski Stefan Osiecki and Victor Ostrowski on March 8, 1934. In January 1961, a group of members of the Tucumán Andean Club completed the second ascent via this route, and the first via the «Directa Polacos» route, which Gregorio completed in record time last Sunday.»
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