The route through the icefall on Everest poses a danger to climbers

The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) confirmed this today in an official statement. Details follow.

COVER PHOTO: The Khumbu Icefall (Photo 14 Peaks Expeditions)

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This was reported today by The Himalayan Times, as we had anticipated yesterday in a previous article, based on testimonies and reports from the various teams working on the site. They confirmed that the Serac is still there; they only managed to «bypass» it and take a less risky route, but the danger remains for the more than five hundred clients who must cross it, not to mention the large number of staff from the companies that collaborate on each expedition. In conclusion, the route has been opened, but the danger has not been eliminated.

Let’s see what The Himalayan Times says today, Wednesday:

The route through the Khumbu Icefall on Mt Everest has been opened for the Spring 2026 climbing season, though significant risks remain at a critical section, the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) said. In an update issued on April 28, the SPCC said a joint team of eight Icefall Doctors and 16 mountain guides returned safely to Base Camp after opening the route up to the Nuptse face. The route-fixing team had begun work on March 16 and secured passage up to the rockfall point by April 8, but progress was obstructed by a large unstable serac. Despite partial collapse, the remaining ice mass continues to pose a serious danger, according to the committee.

These statements, while not meaning that the season is at risk, do confirm that what is clearly at risk is transit through that sector of the icefall. Let’s follow the publication and see the full conclusions published in THT:

«Following joint assessments with the Department of Tourism and the Nepal Expedition Operators Association, which included aerial and ground inspections, the team ruled out alternative routes for safety reasons. A vertical route above the serac was deemed too dangerous, and a safer path through the center of the section could not be identified. With little time before the climbing window, the team ultimately opened the route below the serac. The ice formation, which measures approximately 55 meters long, 28 meters high, and 37 meters wide, has multiple crevasses and could collapse at any moment, the SPCC warned. The committee has urged climbers and expedition operators to exercise extreme caution beyond the point of rockfall, recommending quick movements, minimal loads, and strict safety measures when crossing ladders. Currently, eight ladders have been installed in three sections, and more are likely to be added as the climbing progresses.» The crevasses widen. «Although the route is now open, it is not safe at the rockfall point,» the SPCC stated, adding that continuous monitoring will be conducted throughout the season. Meanwhile, the Nepal Mountaineering Association celebrated the progress, stating that the opening of the Khumbu Icefall route signals the start of this year’s Everest climbing season. The Department of Transportation also extended sincere thanks to the dedicated Icefall Doctors, the SPCC’s EOA team, for opening the Khumbu Icefall route for spring 2026. «As climbers make their way up the route, they are urged to exercise extreme caution, particularly in the serac-affected section.» We wish everyone a safe promotion.

In yesterday’s article, we mentioned timing, which is now the main focus of what’s to come. However, based on what we’ve just read, Serac also intends to continue playing a major role.

What some international expeditions said about Everest BC

Furtenbach Adventures: «The route through the icefall has been established, but it still requires a final check before it is officially opened and we can begin sending climbers. The season is still young—there is plenty of time ahead. Don’t be misled by sensational media reports. Everything is under control, and the season is not at risk.»

Based on these conclusions from FA, what we outlined at the beginning of this article clearly contradicts the statements in this press release from Furtenbach Adventures.

Adventure Consultants: «It was announced today that the icefall route is open. There have been conflicting reports over the past 48 hours. We will know more about the route’s condition in the coming days. Meanwhile, at base camp, we used the day to wash clothes, shower, and prepare the tent platforms. We are camped next to the Khumbu Glacier, which is moving very slowly but is melting as temperatures rise. So, as the ice melts, we need to relocate the tents, level the platforms, and reassemble them.»

Seven Summits Treks: «We would like to confirm that, as of April 28, 2026, the Khumbu Icefall Route is officially open, with the fixing team successfully reaching Camp 1 today. The route has been fully established with ladders, ropes, and anchors across the icefall, thanks to the exceptional hard work of the SPCC Icefall Doctors, with strong coordination and support from the Nepal Expedition Operators Association.» (EOAN) and various management agencies. We deeply appreciate their efforts on such a difficult and technical section of the mountain.»

14 Peaks Expeditions: «The door to the roof of the world is open. The Khumbu Icefall route is officially open. After days of relentless dedication, the courageous icefall doctors of the SPCC, the steadfast Expedition Operators Association of Nepal (EOA), and the incredible Sherpas of expedition teams across Nepal have pushed through every challenge the mountain threw their way, including a formidable serac that once stood between dreams and destiny. Today, a passage has been found. The path is clear.»

We will continue to provide daily updates on this situation, as always, with real facts and firsthand accounts.