Today, just a few weeks before starting one of the most important projects of recent times, a testimony as valuable and complete as the one we are going to show you next, is for the entire Alpinismonline Magazine team, a real privilege .
Whenever we face an interview of this kind, with such an important personality of the world mountaineering, we have beforehand some kind of concern about how that character will react to our proposal.
They usually end up surprising us, especially for their great kindness. In the case of Denis Urubko, this surprise has exceeded all expectations. Denis showed from the start a great predisposition and then taking into account the distances that separate us, a huge dedication to make clear each of the concepts.
Those distances that we mentioned often play against this type of interviews, it is difficult to make an immediate return, since the schedules, obligations and times do not work in the way that one would like. Then it is necessary to plan the questions to be able to make the most of having the testimony of a protagonist of the world mountaineering as Denis is.
I thank Denis in advance and publicly for this predisposition, and I think, after reading and rereading the interview, that we have covered all aspects of its current affairs, among which one of them is clearly highlighted, of which, in a few weeks, it will be All the world of mountaineering is pending.
We are then, at the precise moment, in the ideal temporal aspect to face this type of interview, to know a little more about the immediate plans and some other things of the mountaineering of Denis, that has dazzled us throughout all these years.
I leave then in the company of Denis Urubko, mountaineer.
The history in the winters, shows that the climbers of Eastern Europe are made of another paste, what do you think that Latinos lack to do these activities?
Is not good parallel… or controversion. Some interesting winter ascents had done by climbers from France, Italy and Spain. Bodies and psihic of people are very similar around the planet. But many options depends from cultural and historical relation, of course. In Western Europe people are spending different activities in winter usually. Ski is an important action, was less popular in Poland and Russia in previous years. Is as a joke from my side, but…
Alex Txikon, said "no" to your expedition to K2. Now it goes again on Everest without O2, in winter. Do you think he does the right thing after his attempts last year?
Of course, Alex is in very correct way, he can to realise important dream in case of success. I respect it a lot. But we need to understand “temperature” of adventure, of exploration. In my humble opinion is less in second attempt, and later. Rock-climbers can to understand different between On-sight and Repeat styles. I am really sad in case of ascent to mountain after many years attempting of pressing by same route. As Nuptse or Nanga-Parbat receiving Piolet d’Ors - repetitions. That mountaineers declared as “pure alpine style”. Even by old their personal fix ropes… Strange! I am not agree. In this winter I am going for attempt to K2, and knowledge of Abruzzi route (in case our team will attack this way) give me more possibilities and less emotions. But, as I like to repeat - winter ascent is a huge adventure in any case. We are on parallel by the incredible challenges. I hope to see from top of K2 very strong spanish mountaineer Alex on the top of Everest.
Nota principal: http://www.alpinismonline.com/mz-notas.asp?id=10808 Versión imprimible: http://www.alpinismonline.com/mz-notas-print.asp?id=10808